Mercado de San Miguel

What to expect

Mercado de San Miguel is an iron-and-glass market hall that opened in 1916, designed by Alfonso Dubé and inspired by the covered markets of Paris. It replaced an open-air fish market beside Plaza Mayor. After a period of decline it was renovated and relaunched as a gourmet market, and it is now more of a place to eat and drink than to do the weekly shop.

Inside, dozens of small stalls sell Iberian ham, cheese, seafood, olives, pastries, rice dishes and pintxos, with wine, vermouth and beer to go with them. You pick things from several counters and eat standing at high tables or wherever you find a spot. It is compact, noisy and often crowded, so a visit of 45 minutes to an hour is typical.

Don't miss

• The original iron-and-glass structure
• Stalls of Iberian ham and cheese
• Seafood and oyster counters
• Pintxos piled on bread
• Vermouth and wine bars

Tips for your visit

• Treat it as a tasting stop: share a few small plates rather than sitting down to a full meal.
• Go mid-morning or mid-afternoon to avoid the busiest lunch and early-evening crowds.
• Prices are higher than in ordinary tapas bars, so look at the stall signs before you order.
• It is next to Plaza Mayor, which makes it easy to pair with that square.